Every guy needs at least one fits-like-a-glove made-to-measure suit. And with more designers offering bespoke services (like Zegna, which made this one for us), it’s time to step up. But with the higher price tags (at least $2K) comes a dizzying list of style options. To guide you on the finer points, we enlisted N.Y.C. suit gurus Duncan Quinn, of Duncan Quinn haberdashery, and Franco Salhi, GM of Zegna.
Pant rise
Low-risers: “You can design your pants to sit low on the hips if you’re snake thin and have no gut,” Quinn. Beer belly? Wear them higher toward the navel.
Flat or pleats: Always flat-front. Unless you’re wide, round, or both. For you, pleats balance your line (shoulder to hip to shoe), making you look slimmer.
Jacket front buttons
One: For the ultra-slim modern suit.
Two: Most guys need two. “Buttons are more a question of build than of height. Very slim (and shorter) guys look better with two buttons with the top button placed lower,” says Quinn.
Three: Tall guys and those with barrel chests need three buttons, says Salhi.
Jacket waist pockets
Straight (horizontal): “Clean and conservative, these flapped pockets are for formal business suits,” says Salhi.
Slanted at 45 degrees: “It’s not right for the boardroom,” Salhi says, “but spot-on for slim-fit casual suits.”
Ticket pocket: Designed for train tix, this third pocket is “in” for mod suits.
Vents
No vent: “Go vent-less with a tux and a double-breasted suit only,” says Salhi.
Center vent: “Best for those with less sprinting muscle (flat ass), plus blazers and most summer sport coats should have a center vent,” says Quinn.
Two vents: Ideal for biz suits, modern wool suits and tweed sport coats.
Cut of pant leg
Tapered: “If you can sport the skinny jeans and want a modern look, go for a more tapered pant leg, which should measure about one foot or less in diameter,” says Salhi.
Flared: If you have wider legs, then go out to a foot and a half in diameter so your hem has some kick-out.
Lapels
Narrow: Guys with square jaws or round faces can wear skinny lapels at about two inches.
Wide: “If you have a wide frame, don’t go less than 21/2 inches,” Salhi says.
Peaked lapel (points up): These are for the fashion-forward, says Salhi.
Notched (points out): For classic suit.
Pant rise
Low-risers: “You can design your pants to sit low on the hips if you’re snake thin and have no gut,” Quinn. Beer belly? Wear them higher toward the navel.
Flat or pleats: Always flat-front. Unless you’re wide, round, or both. For you, pleats balance your line (shoulder to hip to shoe), making you look slimmer.
Jacket front buttons One: For the ultra-slim modern suit.
Two: Most guys need two. “Buttons are more a question of build than of height. Very slim (and shorter) guys look better with two buttons with the top button placed lower,” says Quinn.
Three: Tall guys and those with barrel chests need three buttons, says Salhi.
Jacket waist pockets
Straight (horizontal): “Clean and conservative, these flapped pockets are for formal business suits,” says Salhi.
Slanted at 45 degrees: “It’s not right for the boardroom,” Salhi says, “but spot-on for slim-fit casual suits.”
Ticket pocket: Designed for train tix, this third pocket is “in” for mod suits.
VentsNo vent: “Go vent-less with a tux and a double-breasted suit only,” says Salhi.
Center vent: “Best for those with less sprinting muscle (flat ass), plus blazers and most summer sport coats should have a center vent,” says Quinn.
Two vents: Ideal for biz suits, modern wool suits and tweed sport coats.
Cut of pant leg
Tapered: “If you can sport the skinny jeans and want a modern look, go for a more tapered pant leg, which should measure about one foot or less in diameter,” says Salhi.
Flared: If you have wider legs, then go out to a foot and a half in diameter so your hem has some kick-out.
LapelsNarrow: Guys with square jaws or round faces can wear skinny lapels at about two inches.
Wide: “If you have a wide frame, don’t go less than 21/2 inches,” Salhi says.
Peaked lapel (points up): These are for the fashion-forward, says Salhi.
Notched (points out): For classic suit.