Simon Spurr, the British menswear designer who shook up New York fashion with his eponymous label... and then again when he pulled the plug at the height of its success in 2012, is back.
Now the creative director of EIDOS, the CFDA nominee will bring his unique eye for tailoring to the young Italian brand, launched in 2013 as the cooler, more affordable sub-label of Isaia. With free reign to make the fledgling label his own, Spurr hopes his EIDOS will become a favorite among the younger guys that might balk at the rigidity of traditional tailoring.
"My aim with EIDOS is to reposition the brand as a younger cousin to the parent brand ISAIA," Spurr told Maxim via email. "There are definitely overlaps in the use of color, Italian fabrications and quality of manufacturing, but the EIDOS brand definitely stands alone"
"The EIDOS man is an influencer, a self-confident man that embraces music, art, architecture and performance. He is the front man of his peer group and someone that maintains a well-developed sense of personal style."
Despite a loyal following, Spurr's stuff isn't for blind fashion adherents. His inaugural collection for EIDOS—Fall/Winter 2018/19—bespeaks a mastery of tailoring, honed at top-level design jobs at Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren's Purple Label, as well as a propensity to stretch its rules to their limits. There are double-breasted jackets with six buttons in lieu of four and visual references to minimalist artwork of Sol LeWitt.
Maxim recently picked the brain of Simon Spurr before his vision for EIDOS takes off. Here, his favorite looks from his first collection, his thoughts on modern menswear, his personal style, his favorite place to zen and his current playlist:
What are five top looks from your first EIDOS collection?
1. Leather Jacket. Our dress biker jacket combines the sartorial-ness of a double-breasted suit jacket with the edge of a biker jacket.
2. Double-Breasted Mohair Jacket. Mohair is often misunderstood, but the fiber's natural, anti-wrinkle characteristic results in the perfect jacket for everyday use.
3. The Perfect Black Jean
4. A Raw Edge Wool Interlock Sweatshirt
5. A Chained Belt
Where is menswear today?
Playful, eclectic and personal. With the increase in social media platforms, we are all now defining and communicating our own sense of style and becoming individual brands. The fashion 'rules' that once went before of how to wear clothes have in many circles dissolved and are being rewritten by todays new youth culture.
But with every action there is an equal and an opposite reaction. I believe that we are coming out the end of a cycle of disposable fashion, and the younger generation is more conscious of where and how things are made. What will result, will be a new take on old rules, and an evolution of style.
How do you approach your own personal style?
I would describe my personal style as clean, but with an edge. I definitely have a "uniform" of such, pieces that I constantly rotate and restyle to create variations on my "uniform."
My personal style outside of what I wear, is modern, considered and curated. I've intentionally surrounded myself with eclectic mid century modern influences from Mies Van der Rohe to Andy Warhol and I enjoy the juxtaposition and contrast they give me.
Where's your ultimate vacation?
Mexico. I just love the energy of the people, the food, the rich culture and the opportunities that the country offers. I'm dying to stay at a new development called Tulum Treehouse.
Lastly, what's on your playlist right now?
I have an extremely varied choice of music on my playlist. Here's a few tracks I'm listening to right now: "Harvest Moon" — Poolside, "K" — Cigarettes After Sex, "Fast Lane" — Rationale, "Deadly Valentine" — Charlotte Gainsbourg, "Five Minutes" — Her.