Milan’s Coolest New Boutique Hotel Resurrects A Historic Architectural Masterpiece
Palazzo Cordusio Gran Meliá combines world class design with the best sushi restaurant / bar / lounge in town.
The Palazzo Cordusio Gran Meliá, a luxurious new hotel in Italy’s fashion and design capital, Milan, recently opened following an impeccable restoration and revamp of a circa-1897 architectural masterpiece. Only in Milan could a former insurance company headquarters possess such magnificent bones and out-and-out grandeur, from the soaring octagonal cupola topping the five-story façade to its sweeping marble-and-mosaic stairwell and halls within. It’s now an 84-suite pleasure palace marrying sleek minimalism with century-old decorative “maximalism,” and guests may feel like dressing up simply to walk through its elaborate double-doors to check in to the city’s coolest new boutique luxury stay.
Milan is a city famous for its sophisticated tastes, architectural design, and refined style, being the home of Italy’s fashion world and hosting the estimable international Fashion Weeks in September and February, as well as a highly-regarded design fair. Prada, Versace, Armani, Bottega Veneta, Armani, Moncler and Dolce & Gabbana, among many others, call Milan home. Now Palazzo Cordusio is a name that is mentioned in the same breath as these storied design houses.
The embodiment of art and commerce, Milan is Italy’s hub of finance too. Few cities in the world are so spectacularly multifaceted. No wonder that having existed since 600 B.C. its architectural breadth covers Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau, Romanesque, neoclassical–as well as streamlined-chic modernist and contemporary-minded luxury hotels.
Palazzo Cordusio antes up the stakes with its Old World-meets-New World charms. Both formidable and welcoming, the actual shape of its concave façade organically curves and lures visitors toward its doors, surrounded by mosaics, banded glass, and two rooftop al fresco restaurants overlooking the Duomo, Quadrilatero della Moda, ancient castles, and the energetic cityscape. At night the hotel is a-glow in rich golds.
Originally designed by the noted Italian architect Luca Beltrami, the interior is 19th-century eclectic and at times reminiscent of a futuristic set piece in Fritz Lang’s “Metropolis.”The world-renowned hospitality platform Gran Melia’s debut Milan property, Palazzo Cordusio went through several years of historic preservation to keep its original aesthetics while integrating modern-day needs for pampered destination travelers. Art installations, such as the recent collab with sculptural lighting artist Mirei Monticelli, highlight aspects of the architecture in unique and compelling ways.
Sitting at the center of a bustling square and promenade, guests may feel as if they are striding toward the Emerald City. The marble floors and walls of the grand staircase have been meticulously preserved, with nods to the original “Generali” emblems paying homage to its origins. After checking in reward yourself at the flora-filled Giardino Cordusio cocktail bar in what is essentially the lobby. Order the house Negroni and take it all in before grabbing the keys to your suite.
Textiles are the fabric of Milan, and so it is within the tasteful suites of the hotel. Layers of custom-designed Rubelli upholsteries, rugs, and bedding mix with simply classical Mid-Century modern-styled wood floors and paneled walls. Chic designer furnishings complete the tasteful décor scheme. Molten&C, a reputed Italian furniture outfit, equipped rooms, dining areas, and shared public spaces with bespoke pieces. Full-sized steamer trunks of yore are perfect for just throwing all your clothing in. Rare to Milan, the hotel boasts an indoor swimming pool, as well as a state-of-the-art fitness center and spa.
The sexier of the two rooftop restaurants is Sachi, featuring distinct spaces that blend traditional aesthetics with modern sophistication, which has quickly emerged as Milan’s hottest destination for contemporary Japanese dining. The restaurant unfolds through carefully designed chamber-like spaces, progressing from indoors to out, centered on an impressive omakase counter manned by master sushi chefs. The crown jewel is the open-air terrace with its meticulously curated bar and bonsai garden, offering breathtaking views of Milan’s iconic Duomo.
Sachi’s bar program is a perfect complement to the cuisine with carefully curated sake selections, international wines, Japanese whiskies, and creative cocktails that enhance the menu’s nuanced flavors. As evening falls, the garden-adorned rooftop terrace transforms into an ethereal setting where Milan’s cathedral spires create a dramatic backdrop, elevating the experience into something transcendent. With DJs and its super-cool vibe it has quickly become a prime venue for private parties. The “extraordinary combination” of Japanese culinary artistry, spectacular architectural views, and Milanese fashion sense make it a hot destination for hotel guests, locals and visitors alike.
Sachi’s culinary experience centers around authentic Japanese techniques, particularly the traditional robata grill wherein skilled artisans use smoldering binchotan charcoal to transform premium ingredients. The menu showcases both time-honored precision and creative innovation, from offerings like goma-dressed spinach and honey-glazed friggitelli peppers, to sophisticated raw preparations including toro and salmon tartares, truffle-enhanced bluefin tuna carpaccio, and amberjack with coriander miso. The sushi and sashimi represent the pinnacle of the chefs’ craftsmanship, with each piece “meticulously prepared using the finest fish and demonstrating masterful knife work that honors both texture and temperature.”
Exquisite classic Italian fare is the order of the day at Isolo and its terrace bar which has a breathtaking view of the Duomo as well. Designed with a Midcentury aesthetic in mind, Isolo is a white-tablecloth affair and competes with the finest cuisine in a city that has its share. Start with some Buffalo mozzarella and beef carpaccio with black truffles; a casserole of mussels, deep-fried calamari and prawns, crudo di scampi, or a charcuterie of Calabrian sausage. All are shareable plates. Yes, there must be pasta before the entrée (or after if you like).
That includes various spaghetti dishes, a sublimely light Gnocchi alla Sorrentina, Taccardi linguine with clams and mullet, Sardinian fregola with a seafood medley, and a calamarate pasta with blue native lobster. Main courses are spectacular. Some of the standouts include the marinated pork rack in a pork jus; beef rib eye with a scarola salad; an eggplant parmigiana with buffalo mozzarella; sea bream with Vermentino and Datterino tomatoes; grilled octopus; and swordfish menèure. And then close out over a Sambuca with pistachio tiramisu while you plot your next visit.