Wine Of The Week: Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Triple B
It’s the most wonderful time of the year…to stock up on Champagne.
During the holiday season, seemingly every occasion calls for Champagne. Thanksgiving? Turkey pairs beautifully with bubbles. High school friends in town? Celebrate with Champagne. A snowy winter’s eve? Might as well open a bottle of bubbly. It’s always a good move to stock up on sparkling wines this time of year for any number of cork-popping occasions.
As a brand, Besserat de Bellefon finds its home most often on yachts, sailboats, and other luxe locations. It’s the official Champagne of Brigitte Bardot and nautical stripes are the signature across the neck of every bottle.
But the Triple B Cuvee is a new twist on the brand. In 2009, cellarmaster Cédric Thiébault purchased 16 hectares of biodynamic vineyards in Vallée de la Marne. It took several years of restoring and replanting the vines before the first vintage of Triple B in 2012. It’s continued to be a bit of an experimentation with alternative growing and farming practices, but the results are an exciting, introspective Champagne.
Made with 60% pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, and 10% chardonnay, expect more savory notes, and flavors of supple red fruit, toasted rye, and fresh apple. Tight, chiseled bubbles and a striking, persistent minerality. (Much of the vineyards are on calcareous soil, giving the bubbles that piercing salinity.)
The cuvee is currently transitioning to full biodynamics. “Over the years, we’ve started adopting more methods to help preserve and protect the environment,” says owner Godefroy Baijot. “It’s important that we look to the future, nurture our soils and reduce our carbon footprint while safeguarding one of the region’s greatest natural treasures: the terroir.” $90
Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained sommelier and spirits writer. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.