Wine Of The Week: Dr. H. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett

A can’t-miss Riesling that pairs perfectly with seafood.

Hate riesling? Think again. (Photo: Wine Sellers LTD)

A lot of people hate Riesling, deeming it overly sweet and cloying. But most sommeliers would disagree. They say, correctly, that riesling is a broad category, ranging in style from slight sweet and creamy to mineral-driven and piercing. 

As the story goes, in the 1300s, Archbishop Boemond II fell deathly ill during a visit to Germany. On his supposed death bed, he requested one wine: a Riesling from this vineyard. He jumped from his bed, claiming the golden liquid healed him. The vineyard later earned the nickname “Doctor Vineyard.”

We can’t claim this Riesling has medical benefits, but it certainly is delicious — pure, mineral-driven and full of concentrated slate notes. We enjoyed it with seafood— oysters, shrimp crudo, and olive-y focaccia – and it was the perfect pairing. $66

Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained sommelier and spirits writer. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Eater,, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.