Wine Of The Week: Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon

Matthiasson makes excellent, eco-friendly Napa Cabernets.

It’s Earth Month, which, for many, is an excellent opportunity to flex a little do-gooderness. One of the easiest ways to do so is by leaning on producers who are actively championing eco-friendly practices. When it comes to sustainability, Steve and Jill Matthiasson are firing on all cylinders. They prioritize animal welfare. They don’t use synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or glyphosates. They play with cover crops (and plant them so something is always blooming), and consult, to help other vineyard owners and winemakers follow the same path to organics or regenerative viticulture. 

Nitty gritty elements of regenerative agriculture aside, the wines are great. The duo play across Italian grapes like Vermentino, Schiopettino, Refoseco, and Falanghina—they work well in their pocket of Napa—but also stay true to the Napa jazz standards. While many know the Valley’s reds to be rich and oaked, Matthiasson’s Cabernet are lower in alcohol and lighter on their feet, restrained and framed with a mineral depth and notes of graphite and cedar. Enticing, excellent, ageworthy. Even more so, the single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons ($150). Who knew it was so easy being green? $85

Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Decanter, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.