Wine Of The Week: Vocal Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

A fresh, modern take on California cabernet.

Santa Cruz is a pretty cool place to make wine. There are the beaches, yes, where someone just surfed a 108-foot wave. But up in the mountains surrounding the Monterey Bay, winemakers are producing excellent, elegant wines I can’t get enough of.

The region leans into its alpine energy. Wines here are heavily influenced by the crisp mountain air and drifting ocean breezes, so expect shimmering mineral Chardonnays 

Tasting rooms have taken over former logging cabins. Others inhibit architecturally-minded spaces designed to complement the surrounding forests. Quiet towns have popular spots for mountain fare, but also wine bars and restaurants that highlight the nearby ocean’s bounty. Some winemakers work up in the mountains but pour them in beach-front tasting rooms on the California coast.

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Ted Glennon works across the mountains, cherry picking grapes from across the range. His ethos is amplifying tension, between the beach and the mountains, the fog and the sun, the cool mountain breezes and the shimmering California warmth. 

He’s currently working with Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Start with the latter. It’s a Cab that shows off California’s cooler side, both literally (the mountains are crisp and alpine) and figuratively, it’s a fresh, modern take on California Cab. Herbaceous and supple, with lovely, joyful fruit and a mountain acidity. $52

Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.