The Doxa Sub 200 Dive Watch Just Got A Sleek New Black & Red Makeover

The Swiss watchmaker’s entry-level dive watch looks anything but with a striking black Milanese mesh strap and deep red dial.

For Doxa’s “most accessible model” in its Sub line of all-business dive watches, the newest Sub 200 is brimming with poise and panache. This is the next generation of the Sub 200, itself a spiritual successor to the 1960s-era Reference 11804-04 featuring twisting “lyre lugs” and a form not dissimilar to the Omega Speedmaster.

Following gen-one’s 2019 debut, the Sub 200 II is upgraded aesthetically with a fumé—aka smoked—dial design marked by a gradient that darkens progressively towards the bezel. Accompanying the pattern is a new colorway dubbed “Redcoral,” which renders the case, bezel, and crown in a black diamond-like coating (DLC) and the dial in a deep red, which is meant to evoke “sunlit coral reefs in tropical seas.”

The sleek timepiece has a 44mm stainless-steel case—however, those aforementioned “lyre lugs” are atypically compact, especially in their modern form. Thanks to these short, tightly packed strap attachment points, the watch is said to feel more like a 42mm. And as promised by its name, the Doxa 200 II also gets water resistance to 200 meters/656 feet and it signature unidirectional rotating bezel. (Note that it does not include an outer ring indicating the no-decompression depths specified by the U.S. Navy, a feature that made the Reference 11804-04 a standout.)

Two straps are included. Those interested purely in functionality would do well to slap on the new black textured rubber strap, featuring perforations to increase breathability and a hatch-mark pattern for aesthetic intrigue, all while staying “fully aligned with the collection’s historic codes.” But if you want to make an impression, the clear strap choice is the all-black stainless steel Milanese mesh, comprising densely packed woven steel links that hug the wrist’s curve. In the supplied images, at least, the Milanese mesh is striking enough to distract from the timepiece.

If the Redcoral isn’t right for you, the Doxa Sub II is also debuting with four other dial colors, including the “Sharkhunter” black—curiously, Doxa’s most famous hue, “Professional” orange, isn’t included at launch. Priced from $1,750, the Doxa Sub 200 II is available to purchase now.