Wine of the Week: Ipsus Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2021

A breathtaking Italian beauty that notched a 98 score from renowned wine critic James Suckling.

There are very few new wines that become instant icons. Those bottles that get safely stored for years, and opened only on special occasions. They’re usually historic houses, ones formed and refined over centuries. On the other hand, Ipsus, a label by the Mazzei family, is a relative newcomer. Giovanni Mazzei purchased the estate in 2006, and launched the first vintage to market in 2015. So how is a baby wine brand winning such big raves from critics? Noted wine critic James Suckling rated it a 98, declaring it ”superb,” and it was similarly gushed over by Wine Spectator.

The magic is in the vineyard, a unique, sun-drenched plot of Castellina in Chianti Classico. They purchased a larger plot of property (right beside their Castello di Fonterutoli estate) from a former Castello Banfi winemaker. On the estate, a 16-acre parcel of pristine, otherworldly Sangiovese. The land was too special, the grapes too ethereal to be blended. So they decided to launch it as its own wine—a bottling that captures a precious plot of Chianti Classico. 

Now, they’re pushing the boundaries of what Sangiovese can do. Ipsus is breathtaking—textured and rich, enveloping the palate with roses, lavender, and cherries. It’s luminous and entrancing. Every sip unveils a million new flavors and emotions, continuing to intrigue until the last sip. “I can say with confidence that 2021 stands as an extraordinary vintage—possibly the finest expression of Ipsus to date,” says Mazzei. $249

Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.